PC help (home users)

In most cases — yes. When a file is deleted, the data physically stays on the disk until it is overwritten by new information. So the key rule is: the moment you notice the loss, stop using the drive (don't save anything new, don't install programs onto that disk).

The odds depend on the situation:

• Accidental deletion or formatting — the most recoverable case.

• Logical failure, corrupted file system, an unreadable flash drive — usually recoverable too.

• Physical damage (the disk clicks, won't spin up, water damage) — needs special equipment and clean-room work.

We recover data from hard drives (HDD), SSDs, flash drives, memory cards and RAID arrays — photos, documents, working databases. Diagnostics show what can realistically be saved before any work begins. Don't delay and don't try to "fix" the disk yourself — that often lowers the chances.

Contact us, describe what happened, and we'll advise the next step.

Yes. If a laptop overheats, the fan is loud, it shuts down under load or has become slow — the usual cause is dust and dried-out thermal paste. We do:

• Dust cleaning and replacement of thermal paste/pads;

• Cooling-system maintenance (heatsink, fan);

• Liquid-spill repair, keyboard, power-jack and screen replacement;

• Upgrades — adding RAM or installing an SSD to make the laptop faster.

We recommend a preventive cleaning roughly once a year — it extends the service life and protects against overheating.

Tip: if a laptop is spilled on, turn it off and disconnect power immediately, and don't switch it on until a technician inspects it.

Get in touch — tell us the model and symptoms and we'll quote the work.

A blue screen (BSOD) is an emergency stop of Windows when the system hits an error it cannot safely recover from. The screen shows an error code (e.g. 0x00000050, 0x0000008E, 0x0000001E) and often the name of the faulty file or driver — that's the main clue to the cause.

The most common causes:

• Drivers — a recently updated or incompatible driver (GPU, Wi-Fi, printer);

• RAM — a faulty memory module (found with a memory test);

• Disk — bad sectors on an HDD/SSD or a corrupted file system;

• Overheating — a dusty PC that shuts down under load;

• Viruses or damaged system files.

What you can try yourself: recall what changed before the crashes (new hardware, a driver, a program), roll back the last update, test RAM and the disk, run a virus scan.

If the blue screen keeps coming back — write down the exact code and contact us. From the code and file name we quickly pinpoint the cause and fix the system while keeping your data.

The general order for installing Windows is:

• Back up important data from the system drive (usually C:) to another flash drive or disk — reinstalling erases that partition.

• Create a bootable USB drive with an official Windows image.

• Boot from the USB (the Boot Menu key is usually F12, F9 or Esc — depends on the motherboard/laptop).

• Run the install, formatting the system partition, and install drivers (chipset, GPU, network) after the first boot.

After installation, check activation and updates and install your basic apps and an antivirus.

If you'd rather not risk your data or don't have drivers on hand — we install Windows turnkey: transferring your files, installing drivers, activation and the apps you need. We come to you in Odesa or accept the device at the service.

Setup depends on the line type, but the basic steps are similar:

• Cable internet (Ethernet): plug the provider's cable into the router's WAN port, and connect the PC via a LAN port or Wi-Fi. In the router settings enter the login/password or connection type your provider gave you (often PPPoE, sometimes "dynamic IP").

• ADSL (over the phone line): you need an ADSL modem and a splitter. In the modem you set the VPI/VCI values and the provider login/password.

• Wi-Fi: enable the wireless network in the router, set a clear name (SSID) and a strong password (WPA2/WPA3).

The exact login, password and connection type are always issued by your internet provider — they're in the contract or via provider support.

If there's no internet, drop-outs, or a weak Wi-Fi signal around the flat — we'll set up the connection and router, pick the channel and recommend hardware if needed.

The key rule is to pick components for your tasks, not "the most powerful money can buy". A quick guide to the main parts:

• CPU: the heart of the system. Mid-range is enough for office/study; gaming and video need something stronger.

• Motherboard: must match the CPU socket and memory type; it also determines upgrade options.

• RAM: a comfortable minimum today is 16 GB; the type (DDR4/DDR5) must match the board.

• Storage: always an SSD for the system — that's what makes the PC feel fast; a large HDD can be added for file archives.

• GPU: critical for games and video editing; integrated graphics are enough for office work.

• Power supply and case: don't skimp on the PSU — the stability of the whole system depends on it.

• Peripherals: monitor, keyboard, mouse, printer — to your comfort and budget.

It's important that components are compatible and balanced (so a strong CPU isn't bottlenecked by a weak GPU or vice versa).

We'll pick a configuration for your budget and tasks, build the PC or upgrade your existing one — tested and with the OS installed.

The simplest way is an HDMI cable, which carries both picture and sound:

• Connect the HDMI output of the PC/laptop to an HDMI input on the TV.

• On the TV remote, use Source / Input to select the right port (HDMI 1, HDMI 2, etc.).

• On the PC press Win + P and choose a mode: "Duplicate" (same image) or "Extend" (the TV as a second screen).

If there's no sound — in Windows sound settings choose the TV as the playback device. If the image is cropped at the edges — enable "PC" mode on the TV or turn off overscan and set a resolution the TV supports.

Older PCs may have VGA or DVI instead of HDMI — then sound goes over a separate cable. Can't connect or missing the right port? We'll suggest an adapter and set it up.

The general steps to set up a Smart TV:

• Connect the TV to the internet: over Wi-Fi (in the "Network" menu pick your network and enter the password) or with an Ethernet cable into the TV's LAN port — a cable gives a more stable connection for video.

• Update the TV's software in the settings menu — this removes many glitches.

• Sign in to the platform account (e.g. Samsung/LG) and install the apps you want for viewing.

If the TV can't see Wi-Fi or the signal is weak — check that the router isn't too far, or use a cable. If apps won't launch — a software update and a network-settings reset usually help.

We'll help set up your Smart TV, connect it to the internet, update it and install viewing apps.

Basic Wi-Fi setup on a router:

• Open the router admin panel (the address is usually on the sticker underneath — e.g. 192.168.0.1).

• Set a network name (SSID) and a strong password with WPA2 or WPA3 security.

• If possible enable the 5 GHz band — it's faster at close range; 2.4 GHz reaches farther through walls.

If the signal is weak in part of the flat:

• Move the router closer to the centre of the home, not in a cabinet or behind metal objects;

• Change the Wi-Fi channel if there are many neighbouring networks;

• For a large area use a Mesh system or a repeater.

We'll set up the router and home network, pick the channel and hardware if needed so Wi-Fi reaches everywhere.

To watch IPTV you need two things: a player (a program or app) and a playlist from your IPTV provider (usually in M3U format or a link to one).

The general order:

• Install an IPTV player on the device (PC, smartphone, Smart TV or set-top box). Download link.

• In the player add the playlist: paste the M3U link or load the file your provider gave you.

• If needed add an EPG (TV guide) — a separate link from the provider.

If channels stutter — it's usually internet speed or an overloaded Wi-Fi; a wired connection is better for stable viewing.

Note: the channels and playlists are provided by your IPTV service — we help with player setup and connection. Contact us if you need viewing set up on a PC or TV.

Remote support lets a technician connect to your screen over the internet and fix the problem without leaving home. It uses a remote-access program (such as TeamViewer or AnyDesk).

How it works:

• You download and run the remote-access program. TeamViewer/AnyDesk download link.

• The program shows your ID and a temporary password — you give them to the technician (by phone or messenger).

• The technician connects while you see everything on the screen and can end the session at any moment.

Security: only share the ID and password with someone you trust; never grant access to random calls claiming to be "Microsoft support" — that's a common scam.

Need remote help? Message us — we'll connect and help configure or fix the system online.